Littleneck Clams with Green Garlic and Leftover Wine by Alison Roman

I started this project as a complete clam novice: how to cook them, how to eat them, the fact that there are different kinds of clams — I hadn't the slightest idea. I remember feeling very intimidated by the task of ordering them at the grocery seafood counter. Even more intimidating was the thought of cooking them. And then, after just one attempt, I realized that clams are perhaps the most foolproof seafood I could ever cook. 

As long as you’ve scrubbed their shells (they tend to have gunk stuck to the outside that will come off with a little handling under cold, running water), placed them in a hot pot with a lid and a bit of liquid to create steam, and can physically shake a pot back and forth a few times, clams are a piece of cake. (Cake is better than clams, tbh, but let’s not get into semantics.) 

The parsley butter took more work than the clams in this recipe. I already had my food processor on the counter from making green romesco for Alison’s four-bean salad, so I opted to use it for smashing the butter, parsley and garlic clove together. Some people have asked how I decided when to make certain recipes. One answer is laziness. “You mean I don’t have to dig out my food processor and clean it a second time?”

Once my clams were cleaned and ready, I started by sizzling a finely grated garlic clove in some olive oil in my Dutch oven. After it released its fragrance, I poured in some leftover Sav Blanc (and yes, this was like 6-day old wine from the fridge that honestly tasted just fine for this purpose.) Once the wine had reduced, I placed the clams in the pot and fit the lid so they could steam. I made just a half recipe, which reduced the wine needed to just two Tbsp. But even that little bit of wine was enough to cook the clams and infuse them with plenty of flavor. Once opened, the clams were ready for dollops of parsley butter. It took some coaxing to get the globs to land into each open shell. 

---

Pro tip: when removing hot clams from a pot, don’t be foolish. Wear an oven mitt or use tongs. You will burn your fingers otherwise. Just ask my thumb and forefinger. 

---

The remaining melted butter and clam juice provide a nice warming liquid for the can of cannelini beans added at the end. I served it all with lemon wedges and sourdough bread, along with a lemony kale salad. 

Jordan didn’t love this dish — he said it was too salty, which must have come from the clams themselves because I added very little salt myself. I felt that there was a bitterness to the dish, a sort of soft sourness that’s hard to describe otherwise. Maybe the wine was too far gone? Maybe this needed something creamy to balance the bitter? I think I’ll stick with Alison’s other clam recipes in the future, particularly her Clams and Cod in Heavy Cream (minus the cod - just the clams) and her Clam Pasta with Chorizo and Walnuts. 

214 recipes cooked, 11 to go.

Spelt with Crispy Sausage, Flowering Broccoli, and Green Garlic by Alison Roman

I went gluten free in July 2020. As if a pandemic wasn’t enough of a strain, I committed to saying farewell to many foods I enjoyed and, frankly, depended on. The transition took an emotional toll. Meals I relied on as quick-and-easy staples were suddenly off limits, and I grieved the fact that my body could no longer digest those meals without consequences. I remember a meltdown, very early on, when I became somewhat irrationally frustrated that I had eaten black beans three nights in a row because the only other thing I had on hand was pasta. I could have easily walked to the store to buy other options, but the conundrum overwhelmed me. The most likely explanation for my meltdown is the fact that I was actually coming to terms with the underlying conditions that caused me to go gluten-free. I had just been diagnosed with endometriosis. But that was out of my control. Instead, what I ate for dinner each night was inside my control, and suddenly that too had become limited.

No matter why someone makes a dietary change, it’s always a hard, and emotional, transition. When safe foods become unsafe, we experience a real loss of something that brought us pleasure and sustenance. It takes time to adjust to the new normal and all that it implies. Since that pasta meltdown, I’ve made many strides. I still miss real pizza and bagels. But I’ve found decent alternatives like cauliflower crust pizza and gluten-free frozen bagels that mostly scratch the itch. I’ve had to make some real changes for this project to accommodate my dietary needs, especially when it comes to Alison’s desserts. King Arthur’s gluten-free baking guide has been hugely helpful. Other recipes I’ve simply had to swap or eliminate ingredients all together. 

For this recipe, I had to substitute brown rice for spelt because spelt is a form of wheat. However, I’d say that the rice did a fine job of mimicking the chewy texture of spelt, and I didn’t miss the spelt at all. I chose Trader Joe’s frozen brown rice. They come in packages of 2-cups worth of rice and require three minutes in the microwave. A yummy substitute AND a time saver. 

I used Trader Joe’s hot italian sausage here, and started by browning the meat fillings. Before turning on the pan, I tried to separate the meat into smaller pieces, because I find breaking up sausage meat with a wooden spoon to be quite difficult and sticky. Once the meat was browned, I added garlic (I used regular garlic cloves, not green garlic) and the rice, and let the rice get toasted and crunchy. At one point, I began adding the broccoli rabe into the pan, bit by bit, until dark green. I topped the whole pan with a bit of parmesan and called it a day. 

This is a quick, satisfying, and well rounded meal that I quite enjoyed eating. I love when one pan can hold a vegetable, a protein, and a starch. This recipe provides all three in a cohesive effort, and it can be made entirely gluten-free! I call that a win-win meal. 

155 recipes cooked, 70 to go.

Labne with Sizzled Scallions and Chile (Almost Ranch) by Alison Roman

There’s a reason Alison’s friends call this “The Dip,” and why it’s the first recipe in nothing fancy. It’s fantastic. It’s creamy, spicy, and tangy. I served it as a dip with carrots, radishes, and almond crackers, and as a salad dressing. I savored every last drop. 

To make it, you just need about 20 minutes of time and some organic green garlic on hand. Which means this is decidedly a late spring, early summertime appetizer. Perfect for those early days of summer when the sun is finally setting later and the deck is once again warm enough for a dinner party. It’s for when you start craving chilled white wine instead of warm red. (Of course, yes, you can substitute scallions for green garlic and make it all year round. But letting this dish be seasonal adds a level of specialness to it all, I think.) 

Green garlic, you ask? Right, I hadn’t heard of it either. I knew about bulbed garlic, but I’d never seen green garlic. At least, I didn’t think I had. Towards the beginning of April, I noticed a small bin of what looked like extra long scallions appeared at Whole Foods. Their long fronds mimicked that of leeks, but they were thinner in size. I did some investigating, and sure enough, it was filled with bunches of green garlic. This recipe requires using the light green and white parts of it, just like a scallion. The thinly sliced garlic, though still potent, gave a more muted punch than would grated white garlic. 

The bits of green garlic are simmered in olive oil along with cilantro and red pepper flakes. Alison says to do this until everything begins to “sizzle and frizzle” and the oil turns a “fiery orange.” To keep anything from burning, the pot is set over medium-low heat. For me, the sizzle-and-frizzle began about 5 minutes in, but the fiery orange never did. I let it all sizzle for 15 or so minutes, but the oil remained a golden yellow. My only hypothesis is that my pepper flakes were not potent or quality enough? But I’m open to other theories. 

Once the oily mixture cools slightly, it’s swirled into a bowl of labne or yogurt and lemon juice, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and more fresh cilantro. (I used goat’s milk yogurt due to my stomach’s vendetta against cow’s milk.)

This one was a hit with the entire family.  

71 recipes cooked, 154 to go.