Roasted Squash with Yogurt and Spiced Buttered Pistachios by Alison Roman

Sometimes my brain works like Michael Scott’s in The Office. It thinks of one thing and, through a series of tiny logic jumps, ends on something completely different (but vaguely related). Like Michael’s name association game in Season 5, Episode “Lecture Circuit.” If you know, you know. Why am I mentioning this? Mostly for my own pleasure. Here’s how my brain thought about writing this essay… 

I need to write about the squash recipe → I used an acorn squash → I’m delighted by the way that acorn squash resembles a real acorn → acorn squash looks like someone pumped air into a real acorn until it was 1,000x its original size → you know who likes acorns, squirrels! → my friend Megan pointed out to me the other day that the only reason people tolerate squirrels is because of their bushy tails, otherwise squirrels would resemble rats and everyone would think they’re gross → I saw a squirrel prepare for winter in Pittsburgh, it gathered walnuts, stripped the walnuts of their protective shells using its front teeth, and stored the nuts underground.

See what I mean? 

Back to the acorn squash. I cut it first down the middle, lengthwise, and then sliced each half into one and a half inch slices. Minus the seeds, they looked like pieces of cantaloupe. Now per Alison’s suggestion, and remembering what I wished I’d done with her Caramelized Winter Squash recipe, I chose to keep the seeds in there for added texture and crunch. A fabulous choice, IMO. Like pumpkin seeds, they’re a little hard to chew - but they taste delightful. 

While the squash roasted in the oven, I sauteed chopped pistachios, turmeric and pepper flakes in browned butter. What makes this recipe so low maintenance is the use of pre-shelled pistachios. Trader Joes sells bags of pistachio meats for an affordable price, and I can’t recommend them enough. Also, the lemony yogurt is an essential part of this recipe. I think the strength of the turmeric flavor needs a slightly acidic mellowing, which the yogurt and lemon juice provide. 

I especially appreciated the addition of flaky salt at the end, making this a triple crunch recipe: pistachios, squash seeds, and flaky salt. This recipe can be made all winter long, but it’s especially perfect for the holidays, adding some flare to an otherwise traditional vegetable. Wow your relatives. Make this acorn squash. Maybe tell them my friend’s theory about squirrels. Or don’t. 

157 recipes cooked, 68 to go.

Summer Squash with Basil, Parmesan, and Toasted Buckwheat by Alison Roman

It may surprise you that this entire plate of squash was eaten by four people in one sitting. It may surprise you that I’ve been craving this dish ever since I made it. It may also surprise you that lemon juice and a dash of fish sauce (yes, fish sauce) are all that’s needed to make seemingly flavorless summer squash taste irresistibly fresh. A sprinkling of parmesan, chives, basil, and toasted pistachios don’t hurt either. 

And that’s exactly what this dish involves – thinly sliced squash (about two large ones) tossed in lemon juice and a teaspoon of fish sauce, arranged with style (or not) on a large serving platter, topped with parmesan, finely chopped chives, basil, and toasted pistachios. I chose to sub the buckwheat groats (an Alison classic) because I already had toasted and chopped pistachios on hand. If you’re considering skipping the fish sauce, don’t. It adds a very subtle complexity that lemon juice alone won’t provide. No one asked, “is there fish sauce in this?” But just, “how did you make the squash taste so good?”

A future summer go-to if I ever had one.  

130 recipes cooked, 95 to go.

Baked Summer Squash with Cream and Parmesan Bread Crumbs by Alison Roman

Wait... Annie. I thought you were cow’s dairy free? Why did you make this dish with heavy cream and parmesan cheese? 

Thanks for that thoughtful question. I made it and ate it because there are some things worth breaking the rules for. And for me, that list includes creamy baked squash with sourdough, parmesan bread crumbs. A girl’s gotta have standards. This is one of mine. 

First, I prepared the sourdough breadcrumbs. I had the stale ends to an old loaf I’d made a few weeks prior and pulsed them in a food processor until they were not too small, but not too big. (It’s all about precision for me.) Then I combined the crumbs with salt, pepper, aleppo pepper, freshly grated garlic, and a half cup of parmesan cheese. I set this aside. 

The recipe calls for about a pound of summer squash, which for me came down to 2 large-ish zucchinis. The quartered them and laid them in a 2-qt. dish. I poured a cup of heavy cream, some dried oregano (sorry, I didn’t have the bandwidth to buy fresh), and some olive oil. Then I sprinkled the bread crumbs over the top of the zucchini. As the dish bakes, the creamy gets bubbly, the parmesan melts, and the sourdough bread crumbs turn a golden brown. It was worth every bite. 

While squash is especially in season during the summer, it’s also around in the fall. I think this would be a lovely side dish on a night when the weather starts to chill and the leaves start to turn. A marriage of seasons in a baking dish. Or a sign of transition between them. (And a delicious sign at that!)

87 recipes cooked, 138 to go.

Caramelized Winter Squash with Toasted Coconut Gremolata by Alison Roman

“What in the world is gremolata?” I asked myself. I asked the Internet. “Gremolata is an Italian green sauce made of chopped parsley, lemon zest, and garlic.” Oh, okay. Simple enough. 

Now that we’ve got that looming question out of the way, let’s talk about squash! For the very first time in my 27 years, I purchased an acorn squash. I felt very sophisticated as I searched the 6'x6' cardboard box of squashes at the grocery store. I found one in the right weight range and that had some fun orange coloring at the top and called it a day. 

Slicing the squash into equally thick, ½” rings was another matter entirely. If you don’t have a reliable chef’s knife, then tread cautiously. I struggled to hold onto the rolly squash and maintain a straight line as I sawed through its ridges. 

It was here that I missed an opportunity. Alison tells you that you can either scoop out the squash’s center, filled with pulp and seeds, or you can leave it all in and let the seeds toast on the pan with everything else. (Acorn squash seeds are slightly smaller and rounder than pumpkin seeds). I should have listened to her recommendation. I chose to scoop my squash out and discard the center, but one lone seed made it onto my baking sheet in the process. It was oven roasted along with the squash rings. When it was all done, I decided to try it and see what I had missed… of course, Alison was right. The seed was perfectly golden and crunchy and would have made for the best snack. Let’s just say, I will not make this mistake again. 

I roasted the squash rings in coconut oil, flipping them halfway through. They became soft and slightly sweet after 30 minutes in the oven. And the gremolata brought it all together: toasted coconut chips, finely chopped chives and cilantro, lemon zest, salt, and Aleppo pepper. This dish is very unlike any vegetable dish I’ve made before, both visually and in flavor. It was so delightful and could be served alongside a number of other things. I made mine with Buttermilk-Brined Chicken, but it would do just as well with something bolder. 

25 recipes cooked, 200 to go.