Yogurt-Marinated Leg of Lamb with Spicy Fennel and Sumac By Alison Roman

This past Monday I cooked a whole leg of lamb for 8 people. I’d been nervously anticipating this meal for months. From my first spin through Nothing Fancy, the sight of this recipe — Yogurt-Marinated Leg of Lamb, totally intimidated me. I knew I’d have to save it for last, figuring I’d need at least a year’s worth of cooking practice before I could safely attempt to deal with the entire leg of a large animal...

I was right and I was wrong.

I was wrong because even with a year of intentional cooking under my belt, I still messed up. Alison gives two sets of instructions in the recipe for roasting and braising. I went the braising route because she says it’s less scary and more foolproof. I covered the lamb and its baking dish with aluminum foil and stuck it in the oven at 300 degrees for the minimum time listed: 3 hours. But I don’t think the foil stayed tightly wrapped the whole time, and thus, too much steam escaped, allowing the meat to dry out some.

I should have checked it part way through, as an insurance policy. But part of me felt like checking on meat before it’s supposed to be done was “the old Annie.” The old Annie who doubted herself and the process. In her many meat recipes, Alison routinely says things like “resist the temptation to peak” or “don’t even bother peaking until the timer goes off - it won’t be ready before then, I promise”. I tried to actually followed her advice for once. (I’m not blaming her for the fail, but you get the point.) To be clear, the lamb wasn’t ruined — the flavor rocked, and the meat was still tender. But did it fall apart at the touch the way Alison describes? Definitely not.

I was also right that this recipe should be saved for the end because after a year’s worth of intentional cooking, I’ve seen great improvement in my ability to get something wrong and not feel ashamed about it.

A year ago, I would have been mortified the moment I cut into the lamb and realized what had happened. I can just picture the way my cheeks would have reddened and my heart started to pound. And to be sure, that was a temptation for me last Monday. But only for a moment. Instead, I paused and thought, “That’s what this whole process is about, right? Learning — getting it wrong so you can eventually get it right. Your friends are here to join you in that project, not to consume something perfect.”

As my friends sat around the table, I stood to give an introduction to the meal. At the end, I explained that the lamb didn’t turn out the way I had hoped. It wasn’t tough, but it was dry. But then I said, mostly for myself, that I was grateful that they agreed to participate in my project — a project that emphasized learning over perfection. And I sat down, unashamed.

If you know me personally, you know that this kind of moment is a huge marker of growth. 

The lamb is served atop a bed of thinly sliced fennel and herbs marinated in red pepper flakes and lemon juice - and truly, it was exactly what the lamb needed to balance its saltiness. Alison doesn’t mention this, but after 3 hours of braising, the sliced fennel bulb that cooks underneath the lamb in the braising liquid is soft and infused with all of the lamb’s spices - fennel seed and cumin seed. I scooped them out of the baking dish and tossed them with the fresh fennel slices before laying the slices of lamb on top. It added even more flavor and substance to the dish. I served the lamb, sprinkled with sumac, alongside a bowl of sour cream. 

And thus marked my second to last All-Out-Alison meal of the project: 

219 recipes cooked, 6 to go.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Hot Honey Butter and Beets with Buttermilk and Walnuts

“A Working Woman Makes Sides”

This is the story of a working woman who also has a slowly budding social life in a new city. Said woman has been invited with her husband to dinner at a friend's house. She was asked to bring one side dish, so naturally she opted to bring two of them. She chose Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Hot Honey Butter and Beets with Buttermilk and Walnuts by Alison Roman. 

Of course, this presents complications. With the dinner on a Friday in the city and her work out in the suburbs, she knew she’d have but 20 minutes to assemble the sides when she got home before travelling to dinner. The commute would take its toll once again. So she had to get creative. 

She chose to roast her beets in vinegar the night before. She let the little guys ooze their juices and soften while spending an hour in the oven. This, she thought, would put her in a good position for the next evening. 

The next evening arrived in the blink of an eye. Earlier that day, she asked her husband to put the sweet potatoes in the oven so they would be piping hot when she got home. He did this, kind man, but just as the working woman suspected, the oven turned into a big hot mess. This is no fault of the husband. He followed instructions to a tee. The issue stems from the woman not trusting her instincts. You see, the woman read a recipe that told her to put the sweet potatoes, poked by a fork all over, directly on the oven rack to roast. But in her heart she knew that the sugars from the potatoes would ooze out and burn, sticking to the oven with gusto. And she was right, and the oven became one hot mess, and it created many smoky problems for her the next day… but that’s another story for another time. 

The clock was now ticking to get things ready and whisked off to her friend's house. In a matter of minutes, she frantically completed the following tasks (though she’d like you to think she did this calmly and coolly with an heir of sophistication): 

  • Toast walnuts on a baking sheet for ten minutes 

  • Peel and slice the beets

  • Measure buttermilk, yogurt and lemon juice in a bowl, stir and add salt and pepper

  • Thinly slice a red onion and lightly pickle the slices in lemon juice and sumac 

  • Melt butter and spices, adding vinegar and honey too

  • Scrape out the meats of very hot sweet potatoes into a bowl, practically burning her fingertips in the process

  • Place the beets in the bowl with buttermilk and sprinkle the onions over them

  • Chop the toasted walnuts and sprinkle them over the beets too 

  • Drizzle the butter mixture over the sweet potatoes and give them a good stir

  • Add cumin seeds to the top of the bowl of beets and cover with saran wrap

  • Cover the bowl of potatoes with foil and pack a half a lemon in a bag, along with flaky salt

  • Decide she’ll worry about cleaning the oven later 

  • Tell husband it’s time to go 

All these things she did in mere minutes. She feels some loss at the fact that these tasks bring her real joy and life, but she couldn’t find that joy because of the need to rush. She needed to rush because she works far away. And she wonders how to balance that work and that joy. Can the two meet, coexist? All this, she knew, would be figured out over time. For now, she chose to focus on the six friends in front of her and enjoy those slightly spicy, salty, sweet potatoes. She savored the night she had left. 

168 and 169 recipes cooked, 56 to go.

Watermelon and Cucumbers with Spicy Sumac Salt by Alison Roman

Ever had watermelon with tajin? If your answer is no, then you are really MISSING OUT! This recipe is Alison’s version of that powerhouse combo, and I am HERE for it. 

It’s simple. Sumac provides the sourness. Aleppo pepper provides the spice and heat. Coarse kosher salt provides… the salt. Artfully arrange a place of watermelon and cucumber slices (or don’t make it pretty, that’s fine too), and sprinkle a mixture of these spices over the plate. What results is a sweet, sour, spicy, salty snack, perfect for a crowd or just you and a friend. 

Margaret and I ate two full plates, along with salted potato chips and ginger sparkling water from Whole Foods (so good!). It was the perfect summer lunch on my balcony. 

92 recipes cooked, 133 to go.

Citrusy Cucumbers with Red Onion and Toasted Sesame by Alison Roman

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The first time I ate this salad was actually at my dear pal Kailey’s apartment. In fact, Kailey is one of the reasons I began this project. Since moving to Minneapolis, we’ve become really close -- the ease of our friendship matching that of other decades-old friends of mine. Kailey is a talented cook and owns both of Alison’s cookbooks. When we started hanging out at her apartment, I would steal one to peruse while she made me dinner. Eventually she let me take Dining In home for a few weeks, and that’s what inspired me to ask for it for Christmas! The rest, as they say, is history… 

Jordan and I both really liked this salad, which in my opinion is a win, because he hasn’t loved too many of Alison’s salads thus far. This salad is supposed to serve 4, but we ate all of it for dinner. Except the red onion. There was too much red onion in my opinion… 

The salad is simple. Red onion soaked in ice water to remove its bite. Thinly sliced cucumbers marinated in lemon juice, zest, and sumac. A creamy tahini spread at the base of the bowl. Drizzled with olive oil and toasted sesame seeds. Perfect for pairing with lamb, falafel, steak, chicken, the list goes on. I made this with Melissa Clark’s jalapeno honey steak and jasmine rice. It’s subtlety will complement a variety of bold flavors. I’ll definitely make this again!

74 recipes cooked, 151 to go.

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Slightly Sticky Walnuts with Sesame and Sumac by Alison Roman

The first 20 recipes in nothing fancy fall under the “Snack Time” category, and this was the first one I’ve made. I love snacks, so why did it take me 3 months to dabble in this category? I think because my ideal snack and Alison’s ideal snack aren’t super aligned.. 

Alison likes fishy snacks like trout roe on toast and anchovies with potato chips. Alison reaches for bowls of fancy olives and sesame dips. She appreciates a good shrimp cocktail. While I’ll eventually have to try all of those things, and may even like some of them, they’re not what I crave when I want a tasty snack to perk up my afternoon. I like pickles and tortilla chips. I want a tangerine or a bowl of honey-mustard pretzels. 

Another snack I can totally get behind are flavored, roasted nuts. Alison and I absolutely agree on that. So enter these slightly sticky walnuts! 

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These walnuts are a quick, easy, and super tasty snack that’s fancy enough to appear at a party and humble enough to be an ordinary day treat. 

To make these tasty walnuts, toss 4 cups of raw walnut pieces in maple syrup, tahini, olive oil, raw sesame seeds, a pinch of cayenne, and salt and pepper. Bake the nuts on a baking sheet and parchment paper for 20 minutes at 325. As soon as they’re a golden brown and removed from the oven, sprinkle with flaky salt and ground sumac. 

The result is a good balance of salty and sweet, and a fun crunch from the nuts and sesame seeds. They’re addicting. If these nuts are any indication of how I’ll like the other snack time recipes, then good times are yet to come.

50 (!) recipes cooked, 175 to go.

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