Sardines Two Ways: Oil-Roasted with Mayo and Pickled Onions, & Pan-Fried with Fried Lemon by Alison Roman

This is a GUEST POST by the one, the extraordinary, Margaret Winchell. As she will soon note below, we struuuuuggled to find fresh sardines. Calling many fish mongerers in Chicago and Michigan proved fruitless, so Margaret got creative. She went out of her way to find fish and friends to eat it, and wrote about it all with her signature spunk and knowledgeable tips

Margaret, thanks for being a #1 supporter of me and this project, in word and in deed. You’re my true friend.

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Let’s get this out of the way: I made two recipes that call for fresh sardines without fresh sardines. If I were a recipe writer, I would roll my eyes at me. But Annie and I both looked high and low for whole, fresh sardines - she, in Chicago, and me, in southwestern Michigan, and we found none. Alison repeatedly notes how oily sardines are, so I planned to sub in a different oily fish. My first choice was mackerel because my research showed them to be similar enough, but that was also not available! So: here we are with rainbow trout. 

While I was working on these dishes, I kept asking myself, how much do you get to deviate from a recipe before you have to acknowledge that you’re making a different dish? I don’t have a strict rule, but this feels like it’s pushing it. I invited two of my best grad school pals over for “Fish Night” on our first day of classes. Here’s what we ate:

Oil-Roasted Sardines with Mayonnaise, Pickled Onions, and Lots of Parsley

*Bonus go-with recipe: Mayo for people who don’t like mayo

Pan-Fried Sardines with Fried and Salted Lemon

Overnight Focaccia, Tonight

Roasted Broccolini

Boiled baby yellow potatoes (they’re great with aioli!)

…and it was a totally fine fish night menu! The win here really was the combination of flavors and textures on the table. Assembling little bites of focaccia-fish-aioli-pickled onion or potato-fish-lemon-broccolini is so satisfying to me because it feels like you get to do an activity while you eat. It’s entertaining to build tiny food towers! 

oil-roasted trout

The oil-roasted fish was nothing to write home about, but with the accoutrements, it didn’t really matter. What made me grumpy is that Alison has you use a whole head of garlic and several sprigs of thyme that never really make their presence known in the fish. She has you cut the garlic head in half lengthwise and put it and the thyme in the pan with the sardines (trout) while they roast, but they only bake for 15-20 minutes. This wasn’t long enough for the garlic to be really roasted (and thus edible as a side), and the garlic and thyme didn’t make enough contact with the oil for it to serve as a useful conduit for the flavors. I wondered why she didn’t have you smash several cloves of garlic and scatter them around the pan, or even give them a head start in the oil in a saucepan before roasting. The skin on my trout also didn’t get very crispy with her method, but that might have been different with sardines.

Now about the mayo: this is aioli. They are the same thing, but if your goal is to make a “mayo for people who don’t like mayo,” you bypass so many obstacles by calling it “aioli.” But whatever you call it, it’s a little tricky! There was a span of a few weeks early in high school when I encountered several recipes for mayo or aioli that came with a disclaimer of “people think this is hard, but my method is foolproof!” (Often said about making mayo in a blender.) Yeah, OK. They were not foolproof. But this mayo went just fine! She has you use two egg yolks, which is more than you need for this amount of oil, but I described it to Annie over the phone as an insurance policy.

Let’s take a detour for a primer on emulsions! Mayo, aioli, creamy salad dressings, and many other sauces are emulsions. This just means it’s a homogeneous mixture of oil and water. In order to get oil and water to combine and not separate, you need an emulsifier (like an egg yolk) to serve as a mediator between oil and water and help them get along. In making mayo, you start with an egg yolk, often with a little mustard and some lemon juice, and very gradually whisk in oil. The first time I made it successfully, I got my station set up, called my friend Amy, and put her on speaker so I could have both hands free for drizzling and whisking. I was so paranoid about going too fast with the oil integration that I paced it out over the course of a whole hour. This time, I called Annie and did it in about 15 minutes. This is growth!

Last thoughts on aioli: it’s tough to gauge seasoning on a condiment. I tasted the aioli on its own a few times and kept wanting more acid and more salt, so I added them, and I’m glad I did. But when I put the aioli in the fridge for a bit while I worked on the other dishes, I wasn’t convinced it was going to have enough spunk. It’s just so unctuous! It’s hard to ever taste it and say, “I want a big spoonful of that in my mouth NOW.” So, if you make aioli, go farther than you think you should on acid and salt, but also bear in mind what it will accompany. The lemon slices and pickled onions did a lot of work here in balancing out the creamy aioli, but if I were serving it with something less zippy, I would want the aioli to be more assertive.

pan-fried trout

For fish on its own, we all preferred the pan-fried fish with fried and salted lemon. I took a bite and said, “This tastes like dessert fish!” I know this sounds weird. But! Alison has you fry lemon slices in some browned butter until the whole thing is deep and caramelly. The skin on the fish gets crackly in the pan-frying. And the other lemon slices are quick-cured in salt and sumac. When you put it all together, you have caramel notes from the brown butter, a salty-acidic pop from the sumac lemons, and crispiness from the fish skin. It could so be a lemon pastry. 

212 and 213 recipes cooked, 12 to go.

Trout Roe on Buttered Toast with Lemony Herbs & Smoked Trout with Mustard and Apples by Alison Roman

For the not-so seafood savvy like me, you might be wondering, what is trout roe exactly? Also referred to as caviar, roe is an unfertilized egg collected from a fish. Not exactly a description I call “appetizing.” I recognize that many people view caviar as a delicacy, but I’m not really a delicacy kind of person. Needless to say, I put this recipe off until I couldn’t any longer. 

Last week, I decided that it was high time to start crossing off the final seafood recipes. So I picked two: trout roe on toast and smoked trout with mustard and apples. Then I marched over to Whole Foods with determination and a tinge of dread. I found smoked trout in a refrigerator next to the seafood counter, but didn’t see the roe. I asked the seafood counter for help, and turns out, the roe was next to the smoked trout, but it was labeled caviar. Clearly I hadn’t done my research yet. They didn’t have trout roe, but Alison says salmon roe will do the trick, so that’s what I purchased. 

I paid for the products reluctantly (caviar is pricey!) and marched back over the bridge toward home. That afternoon, I popped a slice of sourdough in the toaster, smeared a heck of a lot of butter on it, and topped it with dill, lemon zest, flaky salt, and roe. And it wasn’t bad. It’s hard to mess with buttered toast and dill. Roe is very fishy, perhaps too much for my taste. But I could sort of convince myself that it was good. I still have much of the jar left, so maybe I’ll try it with potato chips like Alison does in the video she released today (I swear I’m getting more and more on her wavelength somehow). 

The next day, I pulled out the package of smoked trout and tried a small bite. Again, not terrible, but not something I’d normally choose to eat. This salad is a nice way to eat it though, with plenty of vinegar to balance out the fishiness. Sour cream smeared on the bottom of the bowl, mustard greens (I used arugula) and mustard seeds soaked in apple cider vinegar. Smoked trout, too. All in all a fine combination. Jordan and I ate this for lunch. Now that I’m thinking about, it would have gone nicely with some salty potato chips, too! 

If you like this kind of fishy food, I think you’ll love these recipes. If you don’t, feel free to skip them.

190 and 191 recipes cooked, 34 to go.

Grilled Trout with Green Goddess Butter (A Whole Fish! Yes, You Can!) by Alison Roman

Yes, I can! Three weeks ago, I learned I could grill a whole fish. It was an empowering, exhilarating experience. The process was easy, but the mental battle was harder. Those eyes, ya know? Alison’s Grilled Branzino with Lemons All of the Ways exceeded my expectations. I left that cooking experience with more confidence and an excitement for my next whole fish rendezvous. You can read all about that here! 

Sadly, I wasn’t able to find any whole trout. Granted, I did only look at two stores. I’m sure I would have been able to find trout at a seafood specialty store, but I just didn’t have the energy or time to hop around. Not surprisingly, since starting my new job, I haven’t had the space to shop for more niche ingredients. But so it goes. Thankfully, Alison says you can use branzino too, which can be readily found at Whole Foods. 

The process is very similar, if not identical, to the recipe I mentioned earlier. Simply season the fish with salt and pepper, and spray it with canola oil. The fish spends roughly 8 minutes per side on the grill at medium-high heat until the skin is charred and slightly puffy. Instead of lemon slices, the fish is stuffed with sprigs of thyme. At the very end, I dressed the fish with dollops of green goddess butter that melted into the skin. For details about this herby butter, see the Roasted Radishes with Green Goddess Butter recipe post. 

The flavors and seasoning paired perfectly with Branzino - a relatively mild and tender white fish. If it weren’t for the fact that these two particular fish seemed to have far more bones, I may have said that I enjoyed this fish even more than the last. But I do think the two recipes are equally fit for a lovely summer dinner on the deck, and though they look fancy, they don’t require fancy skills or techniques. Alison tells you everything you need to know in order to make a successful and wow-worthy meal. 

112 recipes cooked, 113 to go.

Mom’s Trout with Herby Breadcrumbs by Alison Roman

Trout… you mean the fish that my uncles caught every summer on our family trip in the mountains? The one that smells potently fishy? The one that made my cousins giggle as they cut it open with a pocketknife to watch the guts squirt out? 

I’m not making you want to read this post, sorry. I just have trout baggage. 

If it’s not abundantly clear already, I trust Alison’s taste, even when I don’t always agree with it. Even so, her trout recipes, of which there are several, have been on my “make once and never again” list from the very beginning. I wasn’t at all excited about making her mom’s trout. I did, however, have leftover sourdough to make the herby breadcrumbs – which is how this all began. 

Using my food processor, I pulsed my last few sourdough slices into breadcrumbs. I then mixed them with melted butter, chopped parsley and thyme. Seasoned with salt and pepper, I scattered them over the trout fillets and popped them into the oven for 10 minutes, until the crumbs were bubbling from the butter and the fish was just cooked through. Trout filets are very thin, so they take no time at all. 

I found my trout at Trader Joes, though I could only find it frozen. I chose to let it thaw in the refrigerator, starting in the morning. The scent was quite fishy, just like I expected, but the fresh breadcrumbs and lemon juice did a nice job tempering the scent so it didn’t overpower the meal. 

Based on this experience, I’ll give trout another try. I won’t, however, be gutting it myself like my uncles do. No way, Jose. 

64 recipes cooked, 161 to go.

with red wine risotto